Bleeding Air from Shimano Disk Brakes ✔

 Well, I've done it!

I've owned Cliffy for several weeks and spun up a hundred k's or more ... all with dodgy brakes. In fact I knew before I even laid eyes on him that the brakes needed work.  The previous owner gave me $100 off his asking price to pay for brake service.  

A few weeks ago I ordered a Shimano kit for around $30 and it say for a week our more while I figured how to go about it and to get in the mood.  As it turns out,  the YouTube videos on bleeding these brakes all featured a different blender screw.  The bleeder system on the Kona had a typical nipple but it could not be removed.  To bleed air,  there is a small grub screw the needs to be cracked open and voila!

This evening,  by the fire the day's work behind me,  I made acoffee and had a go. Working on Cliffy after four days work on my Land Rover is like microsurgery. I'm constantly worries about breaking something.  But in fact,  like most things in life,  the first step is the hardest.  The brake bleeding went like clockwork.  Its was alittle embarrassing how essay it is to achieve. So now I have a nice firm.gel to both brakes,  and already I want to go for a ride. Procrastination is a drag

. 



If you want,  zoom in.  You will see the bleeder nipple to the right of the head out the split pin,  it's covered by a black dust cap. The bleeder screw is the slightly corroded screw above the nipple. 

One thing I did not do per instructions was to leave the wheel in place. The instructions invariably direct that the wheel be removed,  the disk pads are removed and a special plastoc block is inserted between the pads. I figured that those of not done with cars, so why bother.  

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